WINTER FRUITS OF THE MIDDLE EAST:

POMEGRANATES AND DATES

 

  By Carrie Clough

Winter in Southern California is unusual compared to winter in most of the United States. Even a large portion of the planet would describe winter as cold, harsh and uncompromising. However, the spiritual or religious sentiments that have become such an integral part of the worldwide celebrations in November and December hail from a region where winters are often as clement as our winters here in California: the Middle East.

The Middle East has enriched the world with many gifts over many centuries. It is the birthplace of most of the world’s organized religions, the native source for many of the common crops eaten globally (including wheat, barley, almonds and lentils, to name a few) and has introduced to the world the culinary artistry of blending sweet, smoky and strong spices with everything from grilled meats and sauces to nut-filled desserts.

One of the most distinctive symbols of the Middle East, whose season is late fall to early winter (or right now!), is the pomegranate. The beautifully pink and red round fruits that are remarkably shaped like Christmas ornaments have a historical significance in both Middle Eastern and Mediterranean folklore.

The prophet Mohammed wrote in the Koran that “the pomegranate purifies the body of jealousy and hate.” The pomegranate’s long association with death and rebirth in the Middle East was eventually adopted by Christianity as a symbol of the resurrection. Some claim that it was the pomegranate and not the apple that Adam and Eve shared in the Garden of Eden.
In Greek mythology, the pomegranate is a symbol of joyous times and good fortune, as well as fertility and prosperity. It was used in ceremonies honoring Demeter, the goddess of fertility (and agriculture), and eaten by those who sought to gain fertility and abundance. There is also the myth of Attis, who was said to have been immaculately conceived by his mother, Nana, after she placed a ripe pomegranate on her bosom (not too dissimilar from the story of Mary Magdalene).

It would make sense that the ubiquitous shape of Christmas tree ornaments was taken directly from these Middle Eastern and Mediterranean traditions involving the joyous, fertile symbol of pomegranates growing on a tree, which symbolizes eternal life. The seeds of each fruit can sprout into new trees and thus forever continue the cycle.
The unique flavor of the pomegranate is elusive to those unwilling to exert the effort it takes to extract the seeds, but well worth that effort. The wide use of the pomegranate in Middle Eastern cuisine evokes the magic and beauty I have always associated with this part of the world.

Two of my favorite cookbook authors at the moment are Greg and Lucy Malouf, whose cookbooks Artichokes to Za’taar and Saha: A Chef’s Journey Through Lebanon and Syria have inspired me to new culinary heights. Creative recipes like oysters with tomato-pomegranate dressing; pomegranate cordials; pomegranate butter; and red pepper, walnut and pomegranate dip have taken my grasp of the pomegranate and turned it into something far more playful. Pomegranate molasses is a favorite you can easily find in Middle Eastern, Indian or Asian markets.

B. D. Dautch from Earthtrine Farm sold limited quantities of white pomegranates in November but they were a delicious novelty. They lack the characteristic tartness of the traditional pomegranate varieties, but actually were one of the first pomegranate varieties to reach America via the Sonoran Desert of the Southwest. They are now known as the Sonoran White pomegranate. The common pomegranate cultivar is called Wonderful and the Eversweet cultivar is also fairly common.
Dates are another Middle Eastern fruit that is harvested mid-late winter to late spring but is available year-round (because they are fermented and dried for consumption). Dates are, to me, the classic symbol of fruit from dry, warm climates, since date palms cannot handle cold weather. Dates have been a staple food in the desert for thousands of years and have been an essential part of the Bedouin diet due to their high caloric content. Dates are often given as gifts during the holiday season, delicately wrapped in fine paper like most delicacies.

Dates reached England around the 13th century, right at the beginning of the miniature ice age of northern Europe. Europeans traveled to distant, warmer climates like the Middle East in search of food that could be easily transported without spoilage. The English added dates to holiday cakes like sticky toffee pudding or Christmas pudding, since dates were not only sweet but were excellent binders with good, stodgy texture.

In the Middle East, dates are used in savory dishes, often partnered with lamb or pigeon, or used as a garnish with chopped nuts on rice or grain dishes. I love dates used in tart chutneys or added to tagines.
My childhood friend Riven sells dates at the Santa Barbara Saturday Farmers’ Market for Flying Disc Ranch, an eco-dynamic date farm in the Coachella Valley. This time of year, they have about eight to 10 varieties of dates. Khadrawi dates are my favorite. They have a soft caramel texture and are lighter in color than most dates. They also have one of the shortest seasons, so they are only available on rare occasions. Khadrawis are subtly perfumed with the scent of roasted carob. I use them chopped with ground, toasted almonds and shredded coconut for a simple pie crust.

Dayries are my next favorite date. They are deep amber in color and a texture more like Medjools but with an earthy, molasses-like flavor. Barhee is a date miracle, in my opinion, because its texture is softer than butter. They must be refrigerated to preserve any sense of shape—unless you want to spread them on toast, which is heavenly.
Most people think of hummus, baba ghanouj, tabbouli and pita bread when they think of Middle Eastern food, but there are so many more layers to this incredible region of the world. I have not even had the good fortune of visiting the Middle East, and yet I have journeyed there often through books, cookbooks and incredible flavors.

It seems especially important at this time of year to cherish these cultures from the Middle East and give thanks for all that these centuries-old traditions have given to the rest of the world. Depictions of violence and terrorism have sadly dominated over traditional images of Lebanese bakers, sun-dried fruits and nuts from Turkey, the careful collection of saffron from crocuses in Iran, traditional cheese- and yogurt-making (which some say originated in the Middle East), the artful process of making rosewater and the simple beauty of home-grown herbs and spices. These are remarkable culinary traditions for which we should have immense respect and gratitude. Let us hope that peace will prevail in these turbulent times.

For a Middle Eastern–themed winter menu, I include not only pomegranates and dates but other traditional Middle Eastern ingredients such as lamb, sumac and Haloumi cheese. I only have room here for one recipe but for the others on the menu feel free to email me at carrie@manzanitachef.com.