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Re-Imagining
Eden
Marketshare: How three of Ojai's locally
owned & operated markets serve our community
At Home in the Orchards: An Edible Ojai
Profile of Elsie Kosub Jones
RE-IMAGINING
EDEN
By Jane
Handel
The other
day, I ran into a friend who spotted a carton of milk I'd
just purchased from the supermarket. After commenting on the
fact that at least it was "organic," he then asked
if I had ever tried goat's milk. I replied that I hadn't but
that I was crazy about goats. Then he said he knew someone
in the neighborhood that raised goats, milked them daily,
and maybe he could arrange an introduction so that I could
try the milk which he insisted is healthier than cow's milk.
Two days
later, I was petting a bunch of beautiful Nubian goats while
being entertained by a randy buck as he went about his courting
ritual, singing love songs to a doe in heat while trying to
mount her. At the same time, I was absorbing as much information
as possible about goat husbandry and milk production from
the affable and knowledgeable owner who I plied with questions,
many of which were based on popular misconceptions about goat
milk. Prior to this visit, I had done a little bit of research
about goats and goat milk on the Internet and learned that
the best milk-producing goats are Saanen's. So I asked the
man why he had chosen Nubians since they don't produce as
much milk as other breeds. He very charmingly replied, "I
just like the way they look. I like their ears." Then
he went on to rhapsodize about each individual goat's ears
at length. This was a gentleman after my own heart. Despite
being a pragmatist, I'm also an aesthete and my quest for
beauty inevitably wins out. The Nubians are truly beautiful
with those long, floppy, velvety ears. Don't get me started
on their amazing eyes…
Then he
took us inside his house to give me my first taste of goat
milk. First, he poured an elegant little wineglass of milk
that had been chilled. It was delicious. Then he poured another
glass of milk that was still warm from the goat he had just
finished milking minutes before our arrival. It was also incredibly
delicious. There was no hint of the infamous "goaty"
odor or taste that scares some people away from drinking goat
milk in lieu of or in addition to cow's milk. Actually, he
explained, there should be little or no odor depending on
the feed, sanitary conditions of the pen, and if bucks are
segregated during the milking.
Of course
this experience just intensified my longing to have goats
of my own so now I'm trying to figure out how to fit them
into my little yard space - something I've been trying to
figure out ever since I moved to Ojai. Since I seem to be
a failure as a vegetable gardener, maybe I can use some of
that space for a goat pen. Everyone agrees that they don't
really need a lot of space although there would have to be
at least two because, as herd animals, they get profoundly
lonely and depressed if they are all by themselves. And, as
I allow my imagination to have free reign, and visualize the
possibilities, if I had two Nubian does, they could potentially
provide enough milk and maybe even cheese for me and my extended
family.
It's interesting
to note that more people consume milk and milk products from
goats worldwide than any other animal. The following is a
content comparison of goat and cow milk from an Internet site
titled: ALL ABOUT GOATS, which was compiled by several researchers
in the U.S. from data from the National Agriculture Library.
"Goat
milk casein and goat milk fat are more easily digested than
from cow milk. Goat milk is valued for the elderly, sick,
babies, children with cow milk allergies, patients with ulcers,
and even preferred for raising orphan foals or puppies. Fat
globules in goat milk are smaller than in cow milk and remain
dispersed longer. Goat milk is higher in vitamin A, niacin,
choline and inositol than cow milk, but it is lower in vitamin
B6, B12, C and carotenoids. The shorter chain fatty acids
(C6, C8, C10, C12) are characteristically higher in goat milk
than in cow milk. Otherwise milk gross composition from goats
or cows is similar except for differences due to breeds, climate,
stage of lactation and feeds."
My lifelong
fantasy has always been to have a small, subsistence level
farm. At the moment, on my tiny quarter of an acre, I have
a variety of fruit trees, a few scrawny vegetables, and some
wonderful egg producing chickens. Maybe if I can somehow figure
out a way to squeeze in a couple of Nubian goats, my Eden
will be complete. And, come the revolution, my family and
I will not only survive but also thrive.
MARKETSHARE:
How three of Ojai's locally owned & operated markets serve
our community
By Tracey
Ryder
Small,
local markets make towns a better place to live. That could
be the motto of our food community here in Ojai, since so
many people are dedicated to making the ones we have thrive.
Owners, employees, vendors and customers all contribute to
the success of each of our local markets. And, for a small
town, we have a lot to choose from-Rainbow Bridge, Westridge
Market, The Farmer & The Cook, and Starr Market. Especially
now, in light of the current strike by the big chain stores,
it's comforting to know we can still get all the groceries
we need without having to drive out of town for them.
Some might
wonder how a town as small as Ojai could support so many local
markets, not to mention the wine, liquor and quick stop-type
stores who also provide that forgotten quart of milk, loaf
of bread or bottle of wine.
THE
FARMER & THE COOK
Steve
Sprinkel, co-owner of The Farmer and The Cook shared an interesting
take on that question: "Small, local markets are real
neighborhood markets. On any given day, we have as many strollers
and bicycles parked out front as cars. Meiners Oaks is a real
neighborhood with lots of families and those are the people
who support us on a daily basis. They appreciate the fact
that we're right here in their neighborhood. Our store is
a friendly place where they can get good, healthy food and
they don't have to drive to get here."
When asked
if he feels competitive with other local, independent markets
he replied "not at all. In fact, what most people don't
understand is that we [local markets] actually help each other
by being here. It's the Trader Joe's of the world that we're
all competing with. By having more than one local market,
there are more trained employees to share between them and
that helps to keep more dollars in our community too."
Steve,
along with co-owner, Olivia Chase, run their store and restaurant
in true collaborative fashion. Each of their cooks has the
authority to make whatever they want. They are given fresh
produce from either Steve's own farm or from other local produce
vendors and then they make what they are inspired to make,
given the availability of the fresh ingredients. Each day,
they serve fresh soups, salads, breads, sandwiches, cookies
and other prepared foods, all of which are vegetarian. In
fact, The Farmer and The Cook is Ojai's only all-vegetarian
restaurant and market-making it easy for vegetarians to enjoy
their food without the concern for cross contamination from
meats. "It's today's version of a kosher kitchen,"
says Steve.
The heart
of The Farmer and the Cook is informed by both Steve and Olivia's
backgrounds-hers as a baker and former owner of the City Bakery
in Ventura, and his, as a commercial, organic farmer since
1975. The pair is deeply devoted to high quality, healthy
foods, to the environment, and to the community. Sprinkel
added: "We're committed enough to the environment that
we don't serve our food on paper. And we shop locally too-we
buy hoses, ladders and power tools at Meiners Oaks hardware,
not Home Depot. In fact, that's our ethos right there: There's
a really big bunch of small business people in Ojai who care
about the community and we all support each other every chance
we can."
RAINBOW
BRIDGE
At Rainbow
Bridge, there is a similar emphasis on health and dedication
to the community. In fact, Mary Trudeau's original purpose
for purchasing the store was so that she could provide something
of value to the community that was both healthy and active.
"We are proud of the role we play in this community.
Coming here to eat or to shop is an aesthetic as well as sensory
experience. We are a clean, beautiful, gourmet market with
a knowledgeable staff who can assist shoppers with all kinds
of health and dietary concerns." Then she added: "People
think we're just a health food store, but we're really much
more."
And much
more it is, indeed. Once last year's renovations were complete,
Rainbow Bridge expanded many of their departments. Today,
shoppers will find an expanded produce section, a large selection
of quality gourmet foods, Niman Ranch meats, and a large cheese,
wine and bread section. All of this has provided the store
with a more diverse customer base, ranging from the traditional
health food customer, to the gourmet and specialty shopper.
In addition
to all the growth happening inside the store, the Rainbow
Farm is doing some growing of its own, outside the store.
Located on 4 acres belonging to Trudeau, the land has been
transformed over the past 18 months from hard clay to healthy
soil and is now providing both the deli and produce sections
with truly local produce. Still in its early stages, the farm
is not producing nearly enough to supply everything the store
needs but it is making a contribution of herbs, greens, peas,
beans, squash, flowers and heirloom tomatoes. In fact, the
Rainbow crew has found humor in the fact that you can never
really depend on what will be ripe when, so they've placed
signs in the produce section called "hidden organics,"
for some of the items that are more seasonal and come and
go more often.
Chelsea
Vivian, who oversees the farm, does marketing and manages
the deli, says there are new things constantly happening at
Rainbow Farm. "In addition to having a complete compost
system in place, we are adding a greenhouse so we can extend
growing season for some of our produce. We are also continuing
to see what grows best on the property and will adjust our
planting accordingly." Taking care of the day-to-day
operation of the farm are Michael Wilton and his assistant,
Allison. Together the pair is responsible for everything from
planting, to composting, to irrigation. Wilton came to Ojai
just over a year ago with the intention of turning this plot
of land into an organic farm and it's clear he's succeeded.
Ernest
Niglio, Rainbow's general manager, has been committed to the
natural food industry since he was a 16-year old teenager,
living in New York City. He began working in a health food
store there and has never looked back. His devotion to this
business is evident when he speaks: "That was when the
health food business was in its infancy but I just knew it
was the right thing for me and that it would become my career.
I've certainly never had any problems with my conscience over
it." Niglio also says it was when he would go to the
airports in New York and pick up boxes of fresh California
produce that he knew he would like to move west. Years later,
when he and Trudeau met and he learned she was opening Rainbow
Bridge; he took the opportunity to move here with his family
and has been the general manager since the day the store opened.
He ends by saying: "This business, for me, is a lifestyle."
Just then, Trudeau follows up with: "That's what we love
about Ernest. He walks the walk and talks the talk. And he's
one of the main reasons we're so good at what we do."
WESTRIDGE
MARKET
At Westridge
Market, things have been evolving for quite some time now.
Formerly called The Locker Market, it was originally known
for being the place where hunters could have their game butchered
and stored in lockers until they were ready to cook and eat
it. From those early days of being primarily a butcher shop,
Westridge has transformed itself into a full service, local
market, complete with wines, produce, gourmet and specialty
items, and of course, some of the best meats anywhere (and
that still comes wrapped in butcher paper).
Store
manager, David Austin (who goes by Austin so people are not
confused between him and the store's owner, David West), begins
our interview by saying: "Ojai is blessed with all it
has to choose from. There is so much available here-probably
more than any other town our size has to offer." And
Austin loves adding to those offerings. For a relatively small
market, Westridge's shelves are full of quality food products.
In fact, just a couple of months ago, they eliminated all
of the generic supermarket brand items from their shelves
just to make room for more interesting and unique ones. "We're
going for quality and variety," says Austin, "we
have many people who shop here every day and we want them
to feel they're getting the very best products we can offer."
The feeling
you get when talking with Austin is that this guy really loves
groceries. He is energetic and enthusiastic about his job
and he takes it to heart. Just ask for something they don't
carry, or that is out of stock, and it will be there the next
time you shop. Westridge Market makes prides itself on offering
personal service to its customers. Just wander around the
store looking lost and it won't be long before someone asks
you if you need help. Not only that, they'll know the answer
to your whatever question you might have. Or, ask one of the
butchers about a specific cut of meat-they'll not only tell
you all about it, they'll offer tips on how to cook it too.
People
loving what they do are something Westridge Market seems to
have a lot of. The meat department's butchers represent more
than 70 years of accumulated meat cutting experience. And
David West, the store's owner, is a third generation meat
cutter. The current produce manager has been working in produce
for more than 30 years and other employees have had had equally
long careers in the grocery business too.
Overall, the Westridge crew has found a great balance between
staying current on the latest and greatest the food industry
has to offer while holding onto the values of good, old fashioned
service.
I don't
believe I've shopped there once when I haven't been able to
hear David West's booming voice greeting customers by name.
It's one of those things you hear locals describe as "only
in Ojai" and I couldn't agree more.
A Fact
Worth Noting: the three markets profiled in this article collectively
provide over 100 jobs for the Ojai Valley. If you add the
number of employees from Starr Market, it puts the independent
grocery business is in the top ten of jobs-by-industry for
Ojai. Way to go folks!
** Editor's
Note: We tried to reach Terry Starr, owner of Starr Market,
so they could be included in this article but he was unavailable
for comment.
AT
HOME IN THE ORCHARDS:
An Edible Ojai Profile of Elsie Kosub Jones
By Steve
Fields and Sims Brannon
Her smile
reminds you of the sweetness and zest of the citrus fruit
she sells at Friends Ranch stand at Ojai's Sunday Farmer's
Market. Maybe that's because Elsie Kosub Jones has long lived
connected to Ojai's citrus groves, so they have become a part
of her and she a part of them.
Elsie is 86 years young-born in 1917, eleven days before our
town changed its name from Nordhoff to Ojai. Her parents moved
to Ojai so that her father could take the job as the manager
of one of the first citrus groves in the valley, the Wiest
Ranch in the East End.
And that
is were she grew up-connected indelibly to the citrus groves.
"Whenever I left Ojai and came back, as soon as I got
to the grade and saw the valley, I just felt like I was back
home," she said.
Elsie's life paralleled much of the history of the Ojai Valley
in the 20th Century. When her family first moved to Ojai,
olive groves dominated the agricultural scene. But olives
were no longer profitable and the old olive oil mill had already
shut down.
Ojai farmers
and ranchers, though, seem to have been always on the cutting
edge-at that time they were pioneering citrus (oranges and
lemons), apricots, almonds and walnuts to replace the olive
trees.
In those days, the families living in the groves also grew
their own vegetables and raised their own cows, pigs, and
chickens. Elsie's father augmented what was grown and raised
on their property by hunting.
Since her mother had run a boarding house in Lompoc where
she cooked three meals a day for 50 men prior to moving to
Ojai, she was clearly capable of preparing a spread. And frequently,
the family hosted folks from out of town who came for hunting
trips and some good down home cooking featuring the ingredients
grown on the farm and orchard.
During her youth, Elsie and many of the kids worked various
jobs around the orchards. One typical job was cutting and
pitting apricots and placing them on big wooden trays that
were then set out in the middle of the orchards for the fruit
to dry.
But even
with all of the work required in the fields and groves, she
still had time to excel in Ojai's longtime favorite sport-tennis.
When she was 16, she and a friend won the Ojai Tennis Tournament's
junior doubles championship-a major achievement even then.
By the
time Elsie was grown, oranges had become the dominant crop.
The Ojai Orange Association was packing 100,000 crates of
oranges every year at their Bryant Street packing house. After
packing, the oranges were shipped down the Southern Pacific
rail line to Ventura and then transported throughout the United
States and to Asia. (The Southern Pacific stopped service
to Ojai in 1955, and the tracks were removed in 1969. Today,
the railroad right-of-way is the Ojai Valley Trail.)
Like many
young women in Ojai at the time, Elsie worked in the packing
house, but found the exacting requirements of wrapping each
fruit perfectly with the labels all lined up to be way beyond
her interest and skill. So, she tried her hand at being a
soda jerk at Ojai's pharmacy (situated where Bonnie Lu's restaurant
is currently). She didn't last long as a soda jerk, but stayed
with the pharmacy in Ojai and later when it moved to Meiner's
Oaks for most of her adult years.
But, after
retirement, she was drawn back to the world of citrus, working
at the Friend's fruit stand on Maricopa Hwy and their little
store in Ojai until they closed. And for the last 12 years,
since the Ojai Farmer's Market has been at its current location,
you can see her almost every Sunday selling the pride of Ojai-oranges,
tangerines and wonderful fresh juices and lemonade.
Elsie
now lives at St. Joseph's Retirement Center, nestled in the
same orange groves her father planted and she grew up in.
"When I decided to sell my house and move into retirement,
I thought about where I wanted to move," she said with
the same smile and twinkle she greets you with on Sunday mornings.
"I couldn't think of any place better than where I grew
up. "I just look out into the orchard, looking at the
trees and I feel at home."
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